It was a pretty long time ago. When
Baja was dreamy, Cabo San Lucas was made of dirt roads and there was
more livestock than cars on Highway 1. We were zigzagging back and
forth from the ocean to the sea, skinny-dipping whenever we dared.
Now and then, we got stuck in the sand and used our frying pan to dig
out our old bronze Chevy van. The only real headache was if we needed
to put on shoes so we wouldn't step on scorpions.
Wherever I looked, the slopes along the
road were vivid from the chili peppers that were laid out drying. I
fell for the colors: the bright blue sky, the softest white sand,
neon-green limes, strikingly red tomatoes, nearly black avocados
displayed at the little mercados. I admired the huge pale green cacti
with their violent-looking thorns and was in awe of the unbelievably
kitschy sunsets. Our diet consisted of Coronas at 10 cents a pop,
rice, beans, tortillas and fresh seafood. Some mornings we went clam
digging and fried them right there and then. And I discovered
ceviche.
A perfect hot-weather food, fresh fish
is marinated in lime juice until no longer raw. Succulent with the
wonderful tang of lime, every bite is tender yet firm, and the flavor
is complemented by juicy tomatoes, tiny dice of sweet onion and a few
flecks of cilantro. A little jalapeño
pepper adds some bite, and a pinch of fragrant Mexican oregano a kind
of earthiness. I ate buckets full.
We were limping back across the border
with the obligatory stomach bug on Sunday late at night just in time
for my job Monday morning, bright and early at 7 am. Oh, but Baja is
so worth it.
Baja Ceviche
Serves 4
½ pound of sushi-grade fish (salmon,
scallops, halibut)
Juice of about 3 - 4 large limes
1 small tomato, chopped, seeds removed
¼ fresh jalapeño
pepper with seeds
1 tablespoon finely chopped sweet onion
2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
1 healthy pinch of Mexican oregano
salt and pepper to taste
Cut up fish into 1/2 inch pieces and mix with lime juice (start with the juice of 2 limes) to almost cover. Refrigerate 3 – 4 hours or just until fish looses transparent look, replenish lime juice as needed to keep fish submerged. Stir occasionally. Scallops will take the least amount of time, salmon the most. Add tomato, jalapeño, onion, cilantro and crumbled oregano. Let stand for 1 – 2 more hours.
Season with salt and pepper and serve with creamy avocado and
crisp tortilla chips.
Try the jalapeño
pepper before adding and adjust quantity according to spiciness. I
sometimes toss in a little cayenne at the very end.