Africa
is damned far away. It took the better part of three days to get to
our small Zambian bush chalet crafted of local thatch and reeds,
complete with a romantic mosquito net and a floor made of packed
earth. But it was a great journey by big and small planes, by bus and
Range Rovers.
We
drove by small villages boasting rondavels and brightly colored
storefronts probably left by the Brits from the colonial years. I
marveled at places with names like “God Gives Restaurant and Take
Away“ and a club titled “Promises and Lies”.
Kids
waved at us with shiny coffee-colored faces and toothy grins, adults
rode their bicycles with poise and heavy loads, and then all of a sudden
we were out in the middle of nowhere, breathing the warm smells of a
different existence.
We
felt hardly any resentment towards the person who woke us up at a
pitch-black 4:45 am, because he always left a pitcher of hot water
next to the sink. The mornings were surprisingly chock-full of the
most unusual noises, and a handsome man named Special made us a cup
of bush tea that we drank by the cozy wood fire. Which we welcomed at 5 am, but by 7 am, it was Africa hot, and by 9 am, all the animals
were out of sight.
So
bright and early, our cool guide took us single file through the bush
followed by an even cooler looking national park guard in fatigues
plus gun. We quietly walked by gnarly ebony trees and ancient Baobab
trees and snuck up on evil-looking 14 foot crocodiles, noisy waddling
hippos, messy elephants and eventually a few real! lions that were so
close we heard them growl. My heart was definitely beating faster and
louder, but it made me feel very much alive.
We
were fed wonderful food: grass-fed beef, fish from the Zambesi river,
grilled Boerewors
and always spicy chutneys. Clearly, I needed to see the
bush kitchen. It was spotless in its humble simplicity, the same hard
dirt-packed floor as our hut. The ever-smiling adorable chef who was
in all honesty wearing a huge white chef's hat cooked absolutely
everything over an open fire with smoldering hard wood. He even baked
his perfectly crusty bread in a hole in the ground.
Especially
his Bobotie made me undoubtedly gain a few pounds. An indigenous dish
from South Africa, to me it reflects some of the stirring African
history using ingredients that were brought by Dutch East-Indian
settlers and also by the British via India during
the colonial era. The lean beef is pleasingly sweet from the
raisins and slightly spicy from the aromatic curry and fruity
chutney, and is baked under a lush layer of eggs and bananas.
What
can I say but I heart Africa.
Bobotie
Serves 4
to 6
Ingredients:
2 slices
of day-old baguette
1 small
onions, finely chopped
2 small
garlic cloves, minced
1/3 cup
raisins or currants
1/3 cup
slivered almonds
2 tablespoons of Mango chutney
3 eggs
1/2 cup
milk
1 ripe
banana
1
tablespoon lemon juice
sprinkling
of nutmeg
4
teaspoons curry powder
Pepper
and salt
Preparation:
Soak the
torn bread in water until soft and squeeze out excess moisture. Mix
well with the ground meat, onions, garlic, raisins (or currants),
almonds, chutney and one of the eggs.
Season
with salt, pepper, 2 teaspoons of the curry powder and the lemon
juice.
Spread
into buttered casserole dish (I use my well-seasoned cast iron pan)
and bake by 425 degrees in pre-heated oven for 20 minutes.
Meanwhile,
whisk the milk with the 2 remaining eggs, 2 extra teaspoons of curry
and season with salt and nutmeg.
Slice
peeled banana and distribute the slices evenly over the meat. Pour
over milk and bake an additional 15 – 20 minutes or until set.
Serve with additional chutney.