Say Smelly Cheese

Of all the things to be known for, the little Bavarian town I grew up in went for cheese. It's packaged as a small square cube, about 2 oz. and wrapped in foil with the Bavarian colors of blue-white. “Miesbacher Delikatess-Käse” is fairly well known in our region and even available at the illustrious Oktoberfest. Supposedly great with beer, there is really only one word to describe it, it stinks.

When my father and grandmother (my mother was curiously absent) opened that little package and ate with gusto, I was disgusted. All I could smell was something resembling funky perspiring feet, and I had to be excused, not just from the table, but the whole room. I was scarred for a long time and wouldn't touch cheese until I was well into my twenties. And then I was only going for mild and bland, definitely not stinky. I embraced American cheese.

Nowadays, I like all types of cheese: interesting blues, flavorful hards and runny soft ones. So when I went back home to Miesbach last time, I thought I'd be brave and give the little stinker another chance. I expectantly unwrapped that little cube and... I couldn't do it.

It's a good thing Bavaria has more to offer in the cheese department than just “Miesbacher”. One of my personal favorites, and no respectable beer garden in Bavaria will be without, is the creamy melange “Obatzda”.

Velvety ripe Camembert is smashed up with a fork and combined with whipped butter, finely chopped red onion and sweet peppy Paprika. It looks a bit rustic and lumpy with a pretty blush, and is brought to the table with a copious sprinkle of zesty chives. I like to spread it thickly on a crusty pretzel or rich dark bread and have a handful of crunchy radishes alongside a frosty light beer. The best thing about it, it smells wonderful.

Bavarian Cheese Melange (Obatzda)
A snack for 4

6 oz. Brie or Camembert
2 1/2 tb unsalted butter, softened
1/2 tsp sweet paprika (or more to achieve a nice rosy color)
1/4 tsp ground or finely chopped caraway seeds + 1/4 tsp whole caraway seeds
1 tb very finely chopped red onion
1 tb light beer
salt to taste
1-2 tb finely chopped chives

Remove rind from cheese and let sit at room temperature until soft. Using a fork, mix in butter until well combined. Fold in paprika, ground or chopped caraway seeds, onions and beer until evenly tinted and creamy. Season with salt and sprinkle with chives and whole caraway seeds.

Serve with radishes and pretzel sticks or crusty baguette.